DiyLightAnimation
Hardware => Lynx Express => Topic started by: urthegman on March 08, 2012, 06:03:58 pm
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Hello all, I just finished my first Lynx Express v5 build and when I plugged it in the display said Lynx Express 60 hz however,channel 6 led lit up dimly and when I ran it through the test, channels 6, 10,11 and 12 leds did not light up. However after the test channel 2 and 4 lit up as they are supposed to. My solder joints all look decent, and if anything shouldn't have worked , it would be the middle digit where I didn't realized I was using my thicker roll of solder and it got a little ugly, but lo and behold it works! Any ideas what it might be?
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check to make sure you installed the leds correctly ie) flat side orientation.
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I would check the PIC and make sure that it is in its socket correctly. A few bent pins could do this. Some LED's could be in backwards but if that were true of LED 6 then it wouldn't light at all.
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Double check the solder on the processor and the components associated with bad channels. It doesn't hurt to reheat those connections to be sure they are good. A dim channel 6 LED tells me there is probably a bad solder connection.
Be sure the opto's for those channels are in the proper direction. Swap the optos with a working channel to confirm the optos are ok.
If that doesn't help, my guess would be to check the LEDs. If they are installed backwards they won't light.
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Your PIC needs to be re programmed. there is most likely nothing else wrong. You will need to either get a pickit to program it, or send the pic to one of the people in the wiki list to do it for you. I had 4 out of 6 Pics that had the same exact problem as did others..
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Here is the list of pic help.
http://www.diylightanimation.com/wiki/index.php?title=PIC_Programming
Here is a good source for pickits:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330401312866?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_2151wt_952
hope this helps.
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Well that should keep me busy for a while <la.. LOL Thank you everyone!!!! I know I was VERY careful to put the leds in right but a question, if the led is in backwards, the channels would still have output correct? So I can check that by attaching a plug, correct? I will check the pic again it was a little difficult going in. I'm not concerned that the #6 led was dim, I'm concerned that it was on AND dim when I plugged the express in. I will swap the optos and see if that helps. My gut tells me that it most likely is what Steve M. says. I have a pickit 3 in my arsenal and I'm not afraid to use it! LOL I just thought of something, I have it set up for 2 plugs and only had one attached and plugged in, would THAT affect anything? Once again THANKS and I will keep you all posted!
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The left plug is all you need. Don't bother checking anything else. Use the pickit.. 8)
Also read this thread regarding the pickit not auto detecting the PIC...
http://diylightanimation.com/index.php?topic=6731.msg116858#new
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Ok
First the two plug setup with one plug. This would not effect the leds working but would make half of the ac outputs not work.
The leds in backwards would not allow the outputs to work either. The leds actually show you the optocoupler being triggered so no trigger no output. If the leds is backwards it will not let power through so no light and no trigger for that channel.
The programming is likely the problem as this is common symptoms. We had some for an unknow reason not program correctly on this last coop. It has been a wierd coop I must say.
RJ
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I had the same exact symptoms on my 2 I just built from the coop. Reflashed them and they are working great.
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YIPPEE - KAY - YEAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That was it!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Reflashed it and PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!! <res. <res. <res. <res. <res. <res. <res. <res. <res. <res.
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Good deal. 8)
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Glad to hear it is working for you!!
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+1
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I don't feel bad having to flash the PIC. The last two years I built LOR kits I had to re-flash the PIC before they operated properly. Even if you don't flash the PIC after a build, a read to check the check sum to make sure it's correct is a good idea.
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What exactly is a check sum anyway?
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A checksum or hash sum is a fixed-size datum computed from an arbitrary block of digital data for the purpose of detecting accidental errors that may have been introduced during its transmission or storage. The integrity of the data can be checked at any later time by recomputing the checksum and comparing it with the stored one. If the checksums match, the data were almost certainly not altered (either intentionally or unintentionally).
a math problem that looks at parts of a file, that you can check again to make sure it's the same answer... same answer means same complete file.
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The checksum for the firmware is listed at the link below for the Express. If you read the firmware loaded on the PIC with the PicKIT software you should get the values listed. This will tell you the firmware that was loaded is correct and not corrupt.
http://www.diylightanimation.com/wiki/index.php?title=Equipment#Dimmers
More info on Checksum
http://www.techterms.com/definition/checksum
If you have a new Lynx Express, try reading the firmware from the PIC after it's initially built, it's a fun little exercise.
You can find instructions on how to program/read the PIC using the PicKIT in the Express Manual.
http://www.diylightanimation.com/wiki/index.php?title=Manual_Express
Good Luck.
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Thanks guys, you learn something new every day around here!
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doesn't the checkcum get altrered when you change the start address?
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Any change to the file should affect the checksum and changing the start addess changes the file.
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You would not think this would be the case, but yes it does change the checksum as you change the address. I didn't believe it, so I had to test it. :)
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that's the whole purpose of the checksum. It is designed to detect changes in the file even if the file is the same size.
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I went through the same thing on mine today. A re-flash cured all.
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I'm glad I found this.. Just built one of the LE's from this last co-op, and am getting the same thing.. No output from the display, LED's are in properly, and #6 lights dimly. Time to dig out the Pickit3!
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THAT GOT IT!! That controller appears to be good now!! Thanks for the info, guys!
-Roger