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Messages - riri7707

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 5
1
Lynx Smart String / Re: TM1803 VS TM1804
« on: October 13, 2011, 10:09:13 pm »
Thanks for this feedback.

I will pick some to test and let you know...

The found ones are 12v direct from manufacturer at $18 piece (ribbon 5 meters/waterproof).
So the risk to try some is very limited.
In the worth case, i will use them with standard DMX controller using these chips.

More asap

Henri

2
Lynx Smart String / TM1803 VS TM1804
« on: October 12, 2011, 11:28:10 pm »
Hi,
Can we use TM 1803 chips instead TM 1804 chips ?
I ask this because i found some strings, but they are only TM 1803 chipped.

I was answered by the supplier, same controler can manage both as these chips are the same family very close one from the other one.

Some feedback please....

Thanks,
Henri

3
Finished COOPS / Re: Lynx Combiner and 4 Port Passive Hub COOP
« on: August 09, 2011, 07:46:34 am »
Great,
Got them and no customs...

Thanks a lot

4
Great....
Just arrived to France....

Thanks a lot ;)

5
Finished COOPS / Re: Lynx Combiner and 4 Port Passive Hub COOP
« on: May 26, 2011, 11:50:40 pm »
Kit 1  = 1 unit
Kit 2  = 4 units

Thanks :)

6
Light Show Pro / Re: LSP & Smart String Controllers
« on: January 21, 2011, 10:38:10 pm »
The logic way will be :

1°) Declare the SString output ( new plugin made by David), not yet available officially...
2°) Create a new RGB controller in the librairy...

I'm not so far from reallity, i think...

7
Lynx Smart String / Re: rgb flood lights
« on: January 21, 2011, 10:31:19 pm »
I think all we depend of the used IC/CHIP in the strings.
In theory all can be done...
Just request to develop something compliant using the  same chips as in the strings.

Now as the used chip is confident for moment, difficult to answer...

Some we do not have yet the information of the embedded chip,  but for some reason seems to be a temporally secret.

What i know, if i'm not wrong : 3 wires between pixels...

So that's limit a little the research....


8
Lynx Smart String / Re: Smart String Hub Inside or Outside?
« on: January 17, 2011, 03:55:23 am »
Agree...

I used yet PC PSU for outdoor.
I placed inside the PSU a car bulb to charge the PSU and works fine as the 5v needs to be charged to allow the PSU to deliver the full capacity on 12v.

Henri

9
Lynx Smart String / Re: Smart String Hub Inside or Outside?
« on: January 17, 2011, 12:19:22 am »
As per my experience, standard PC power supply will not survive on outside conditions under lower temperatures as they are.
These PSU where not built for...

This is not a running problem, but more a switching components issue. Remember a PC PSU concept is totally different from a standard power regulation, where you have a simple transformer, rectifiers, capacitors, regulator and that's it.. PC PSU is a PSU balanced and very sensitive.

If during the night the temp goes under -15/20°C, when you will power on the PSU, you have 50% chances it will instantly die.
humidity and cold are the main issues here.

In fact what happends from switch OUT the evening to switch ON the morning for the next show, a lot of humidity and freeze will be on the PCB and the components too much cold to resist to a normal switch on...

There are several issues to prevent this :

1°) have a warmed enclosure with a regulation inside  to have a minimum temp inside.... easy to do it : ( a 20w resistor and a thermocouple switch).
2°) Never switch- off the power supply... and take care about the position of the unit to make the FAN working well.

In all cases the enclosure will not be 100% waterproof; you will need to have a hole under the enclosure  and in one side upper to let the air running.

Important question: what is the max cable lenght we can use from HUB to controllers attached to the strings ?

Henri

10
Please count me for :

Kit 1 : 8 units
Kit 2 : 1 unit

Thanks Bill...

11
Lynx SSR4 / Re: Reliablility of SSR4dmx v. freestyle
« on: January 09, 2011, 01:42:32 am »
I used this year freestyle and SSR4 for the first time.
I built a Megatree with 52 channels

All was great and worked quite well.

I face only 2 problems i need to check :

1°) As i used cheap strings from CHINA on 220v, i modify them replacing the basic controller by rectifiers to connect to the SSR4.
One channel burned, after a couple a raining days, due to waterproof PB in one string probably.... So the fuse didn't burn, but only the output... Means i will need to replace the triac once i will dismount my controller box who is still outside...

2°) I was not able to make the strings dimming at all with Freestyle using LSP or VIXEN. So modify my sequence on LSP according to this limitation.

Maybe i didn't use the right firmware for 220v on Freestyle ? I need to check for that too.

Other way, all was perfect....

Henri

12
Some Feedback.
Changing universe as suggested by RJ works.
Thanks for that...

Problem went from my neighbour who uses WIFI for his internet.
As he went out for Christmas for some days and cut his link, all become great...
So now using universe 3, there is no more problems even with his WI-FI...

Cheers .. Henri

13
Thanks RJ...
My plan "B" is to place the receptor in another place....

Maybe i have perturbation by other wireless systems around?
can be?
Can the receiver be blocked my a third party wireless signal?

I will made more try

Henri

14
Thought the Problem was solved with the right Power supply, but seems not.

I think this is more a temperature problem.
When it goes under -6°C or less, this is when the PB appears...
Strange as the receptor is in waterproof enclosure, and when i open it, no humidy inside or condensation.
I replace it by another receptor and was the same...

This time, what happens, simply stops working after few minutes... The Green LED simply goes off and the red light stays on. (emitter is OK).

Maybe still a PB of voltage after regulator who goes down due to cold conditions?
Do you think using a 12v DC supply and a heatsink on 5 volts regulator can be a test to do?
Somewhere like with the MR16, where the main Power standard is 12 volts who goes directly to the 5 v regulator?

Some thoughts?

Henri

15
I got it...
The PB comes from the power supply unit who was 5 volts as main power of the board, and after 5 volts regulator
goes to 4 volts only...
So this explains that : some times works and some times no.
I use now a 6,5 volts and that's ok....
Thanks all...
Show runs now correctly...
Maybe some LSP pending problems with scheduler, but this is another story...

Cheers... Henri

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