Express Ver 5

[KeithTarpley]

Greetings,,,

Same case for all 5 versions.

Keith


And same PCB size also...

[Garyi]

Thanks

Gary

[trekster]

This is my first coop.  Just wondering if the manual is any different for the VER 5 over what is posted now?

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Will it be updated for Version 5?  I assume there will be some mods right?  Like below?

Ron

PCB Version    Change Info    Manual    BOM
4.0

Jun 2009
   Removed (16) 180 ohm Resistors & (16) 330 ohm Resistors. Added a Jumper for selecting wireless or using the on board RS485. RS485 no longer has to be removed to use the wireless.    Manual V4    Bom V4
3.0

Mar 2009
   Added Second DMX Out & Power LEDs (Diagnostics added to firmware). DMX OUT 2 provides ability to chain to DMX hardware downstream of the wireless receiver - . Light Normalizing added to the firmware. Light Normalizing firmware fully compatible with the PCB versions 1 and 2.    Manual V3    Bom V3
2.0

Nov 2008
   First Released Version    Manual V2    Bom V2
1.0

Jun 2008
   Beta Board

[KeithTarpley]

Greetings,,,

Don't worry.  The manual will be updated for V5.  The mods just show what was changed so that people will know.

Keith

[Jeffl]

I'm new to these cards so I have to ask; why is everyone so excited for a reset button?

[KeithTarpley]

Greetings,,,

It allows a power restart without unplugging the unit.  There are no on/off switches.  This helps sometimes with troubleshooting.  Sometimes it allows people to show off the pretty messages that occur on startup.   

Keith

[gjbankos]

Can someone further explain this feature?

Added 47K 1/2 watt resistors across each output to help with LEDS so there will be no need for external snubbers to be added to your lights.

What does this mean for the guy who hasn't quite sniffed enough soldering fumes?   

[RJ]

Can someone further explain this feature?

Added 47K 1/2 watt resistors across each output to help with LEDS so there will be no need for external snubbers to be added to your lights.

What does this mean for the guy who hasn't quite sniffed enough soldering fumes?   

It of course means you should be sniffing more solder fumes until it all becomes clear!


Just Kidding!!!

Users that are using lots of LEDS often complian of the string lightly blinking when they are not told to. This normally happens when you are turning on or off a lot of channels at the same time. It is sometimes called false triggering because this is what happens to the triac.

This is not a certain controller that it happens with, it is a Triac based dimmer issue and is as big an issue for LOR as it is for DIY controllers. The users for years have made up what they call snubbers by soldering resistors in vampire plug or somethign like that and pluging them into the strings close to the dimmer. Some people you will read about using nitelights, etc.

Since it does not hurt the normal lights for this extra load to be applied and it is very little load, I added them to the Express. Can't get closer to the triacs than that!

This saves LED users from having to spend the extra money to make them and have them on the strings. It cost almost nothing to add them to the pcb as the plugs were the expensive part of making them.

Here is a link at PC where a lot of LOR users are talking about them and what they do and how to make them.

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Hope it helps.

RJ

[jnealand]

Can someone further explain this feature?

Added 47K 1/2 watt resistors across each output to help with LEDS so there will be no need for external snubbers to be added to your lights.

What does this mean for the guy who hasn't quite sniffed enough soldering fumes?   

Check out this video You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login

[gjbankos]

Thanks!  Yes, I have that flicker with my Home Depot led's. 

[Brad]

I'm new to these cards so I have to ask; why is everyone so excited for a reset button?

Don't know where you are located....several of us thought it was a good idea for various reasons. My reason was the extension cords were covered in 8" of snow. So if a reset was needed I had to go to the power panel to cut power and allow Express to re-boot.
RJ found a way to do it on Ver5
hummm....wonder if I could hack my Ver4 boards

Brad

[austindave]

...if a reset was needed I had to go to the power panel to cut power and allow Express to re-boot.
RJ found a way to do it on Ver5
hummm....wonder if I could hack my Ver4 boards

Don't know if this is a serious question, but simply drilling a hole in the case & mounting a (water-protected - i.e. "shrouded") switch & wiring it in-line with the supply would allow the reset of any AC-powered unit. A momentary contact normally-on DPST switch would probably do just what you need.

It might be safest, though, to make a mounting bracket & install the switch inside the case (so extra water protection isn't needed & it could be locked up).

--Dave

[tbone321]

The problem with doing that is then you would need a switch capable of handling the full current load that could be applied to the right hand side of the controller which is 15 amps.  You could modify the board by interupting the trace going to the transformer and passing that thru a small SPNC push button to shutdown the low voltage power supply when pressed and cause a reboot but you had better know what you are doing while making this change or you could damage or destroy the board.  Maybe I'm missing something but what is the advantage of this reboot button over simply unplugging the unit to reset it, especially once it is mounted outside where it may be hard to get to?

[Caliente Christmas]

Hi, you’ll

I am just talking out of my un-experience behind, but I also like to think outside the box. What if you just plug the main power cord to a standard UL safe light switch, and then rout the light switch to the Lynx Express main power connection? Question, are light switches rate for strong loads.  an example would be like your interior home wall socket with a light switch.   you have  100% (##) amps going through the light switch.  

Again, this is just a suggestion and I could be completely wrong.  I would not mind if you all correct me, one thing is safety.  Just an advice,  do not open the case and start touching items inside the case if you have the unit plugged in.

For a clean look, if you were DIY enough you can mount the switch face on the exterior case and all the cables would be in the interior of the case.  

“Maybe I'm missing something but what is the advantage of this reboot button over simply unplugging the unit to reset it, especially once it is mounted outside where it may be hard to get to?”

To answer that. Many owner leave in areas that the elements not so forgiven, Snow in my mind would be a big factor if a switch would be available to restart the unit, it would be easier to restart.  
Yuri

Mod "OOps i kind of just repeated what austindave said, in different words."

[n1ist]

Can't you reset the PIC by connecting a normally-open pushbutton between pins 1 and 3 of the programming (ICSP) header?  That's much easier and safer than dealing with the incoming power.
/mike