Help with Lynx Express in Austin?

[rm357]

The only time you should remove the "remove for wireless" jumper is if you have a ex/RX module installed.

[Steve Gase]

The only time you should remove the "remove for wireless" jumper is if you have a ex/RX module installed.

the LEs were definitely missing this wireless(er... wired) jumper!

the terminate jumper was also off... it had wire insulation in place of a jumper -- in other words, jumperless.

Bill, Deanna -- can you give this a try?  ...this sounds like the best explanation so far (and the most embarrassing as well )


...i just looked back in the earlier thread.  i see that one board has the terminate jumper, the other does not -- BUT THEY ARE BOTH MISSING THE WIRED JUMPER.

[dmorey]

I'll ask my hubby if he knows how to do this, but honestly it's like that whole statement is in Greek to me. I wouldn't know where it's located or what to put there. Also, I'm guessing it's a part I'd need to order? If it's not on there we don't have it.

The only time you should remove the "remove for wireless" jumper is if you have a ex/RX module installed.

the LEs were definitely missing this wireless(er... wired) jumper!

the terminate jumper was also off... it had wire insulation in place of a jumper -- in other words, jumperless.

Bill, Deanna -- can you give this a try?  ...this sounds like the best explanation so far (and the most embarrassing as well )


...i just looked back in the earlier thread.  i see that one board has the terminate jumper, the other does not -- BUT THEY ARE BOTH MISSING THE WIRED JUMPER.

[TexasStingray]

If you look at the board there is a blue jumper in place where it says TERMINATE, there should be one also there it says REMOVE FOR WIRELESS. If the wireless module is not installed the blue jumper (or any jumper, something thats makes the too pins connect together). You might be able to test just by moving the blue jumper from the TERMINATE to the REMOVE FOR WIRELESS, But looking at the pic's you do need a jumper on both.

[Steve Gase]

all you need is a jumper (little blue plastic part) and place if over the two pins coming out of the board.  no tools required.  if you have other kits, you may already have jumpers you can use in case you've misplaced the original that came with the kit.

otherwise i'll bring some spares when we have or next austin get together.

The arrow is pointing to the jumper to be installed:



Note the legend on the board: 

[rm357]

For testing you could just wrap a bare wire around both pins or make a little ball of tin foil and stick on the two pins. Anything that will short the two pins together.

[TheBanker]

Or just wrap a small piece of wire around it.

[rrowan]

Or just wrap a small piece of wire around it.

paper clip?

jumpers from old computer hardware (hard drivers, etc)



Rick R.

[bisquit476]

PS, Hello again Bill! These were the ones that you PIC programmed and looked at a couple of years ago when we used to live in Orlando. The fun never ends, lol.

Hi Deanna,

Welcome back to the fray, when you guys met up with the Austin group, were the PIC's reprogrammed? Just to make sure I did them right, and they weren't corrupted some how. And the jumpers would make a difference too. Hope you guys get them running,

Bill

[Steve Gase]

PS, Hello again Bill! These were the ones that you PIC programmed and looked at a couple of years ago when we used to live in Orlando. The fun never ends, lol.

Hi Deanna,

Welcome back to the fray, when you guys met up with the Austin group, were the PIC's reprogrammed? Just to make sure I did them right, and they weren't corrupted some how. And the jumpers would make a difference too. Hope you guys get them running,

Bill

I did reprogram each of them, as a standard first step.  Reprogramming made no difference.