SSR4 Terminal blocks

[rjhodgefamily]

So I just bought a couple of SSR4 boards and am going through the BOM on mouser and the build instructions on the wiki. And I found it kind of weird that the SSR4 uses right angle terminal blocks instead of straight in blocks like the LE does.

Does anyone know if I can replace these terminal blocks with ones like the LE.

So replace these: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login

With something like these: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login

Haven't gotten the boards just yet so I can't test yet. Figured I would poll the community to see if they have any ideas. I just find it awkward to have to remove the board to be able to unscrew the terminal block, and the same for inserting the board the cords need to be done first. Unless I am overcomplicating things.

Thanks,
Richard

[JoeFromOzarks]

Hello Richard,

As the picture shows, the zip-cord needs a wee-bit of room to bend before heading out of the TA-200 case.   Working with the SSR4 cabling is much easier when removed from the case.   That's not to say your idea won't work.   Also, the "suggested replacement" you propose has 16 positions, you're only needing 8.

joe

So I just bought a couple of SSR4 boards and am going through the BOM on mouser and the build instructions on the wiki. And I found it kind of weird that the SSR4 uses right angle terminal blocks instead of straight in blocks like the LE does.

Does anyone know if I can replace these terminal blocks with ones like the LE.

So replace these: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login

With something like these: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login

Haven't gotten the boards just yet so I can't test yet. Figured I would poll the community to see if they have any ideas. I just find it awkward to have to remove the board to be able to unscrew the terminal block, and the same for inserting the board the cords need to be done first. Unless I am overcomplicating things.

Thanks,
Richard

[rjhodgefamily]

Ok I think I see now. So do those black pieces in the box actually slide out? And I realize the one I posted was for 16  it was the only link that I had quick access to. Having only worked with the LE and CG1500 cases I thought there would be more room than that.

Guess I will need to look into some spt1 cord instead of the mono price cords I normally use on my LEs.

Thanks for the help!

[JoeFromOzarks]

Yes, the black pieces (grommets) slide in and out, makes it very handy to work with.   (Remember to crimp on your "RJ45" data jack after you feed the wire through the grommet.

What Monoprice cords are you talking about?  If you're talking about SPT1 or SPT2:
SPT1 = Standard Insulation .03" (16 & 18 gauge) : Maximum Load 7 Amps
SPT2 = Thicker Insulation .045" (16 & 18 gauge) : Maximum Load 7 Amps

'Course, the SSR4 load on each channel is much less, 2A I think?

I use SPT1-18 because where I came from the others just weren't available locally.   And it is sooooooo much easier to play/work with.   And cheaper!   Note:   I've only been tinkering with this stuff since 2008 but I have read complaints of SPT insulation "drying out" and cracking off when repeatedly exposed to outdoor environment, especially sunlight.

joe

Ok I think I see now. So do those black pieces in the box actually slide out? And I realize the one I posted was for 16  it was the only link that I had quick access to. Having only worked with the LE and CG1500 cases I thought there would be more room than that.

Guess I will need to look into some spt1 cord instead of the mono price cords I normally use on my LEs.

Thanks for the help!

[rjhodgefamily]

No on my LEs I go a little beefier. I use You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login because I build boxes for the whole culdesac many prefer not having to cut the ground off of their extensions cords. But since the ssr4s will all be used for mini trees I shouldn’t have an issue usin spt wire for the 4 outlets.

[JoeFromOzarks]

Hello Richard,

Grounded cords are a good idea, even on the SSR4's, IF the intended load has a third ground pin.  And it's a good idea to provide a ground connection even if the loads don't have a ground connection, versatility!   It's never a good idea to cut a ground off, even an extension cord.  That's a pet peeve of mine.  You're on top of things, for sure.

I have a couple of SSR4's with grounded inputs and grounded outputs using cordage similar to your Monoprice link.  I twisted the grounds together with a huge blue&gray wirenut.     The SSR4's are not in a TA200 case, but a CG500 case instead.

The SSR4's have a 2Amp per circuit design.  The LE's (from the Assembly Manual:)
Using both power inputs (ie: two cords on two separate circuits (ie: breakers))
40 amps Total for the Express with approved heat sink attached 4 amps per channel maximum with approved heat sink attached 2 amps per channel maximum without approved heat sink attached.   

Have a great day!!

joe

No on my LEs I go a little beefier. I use You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login because I build boxes for the whole culdesac many prefer not having to cut the ground off of their extensions cords. But since the ssr4s will all be used for mini trees I shouldn’t have an issue usin spt wire for the 4 outlets.