all members report any Aether II issues

[shaunkad]

the dull green is a short I would look for solder bridges

[JimWright]

Another update. We are making big progress here. First, I flashed the Aether II.hex test file. The light cycled through the colors just fine. So that eliminates a lot of possible problems.
Next, I again flashed the PIC and tried to run it. Nothing happened. (I will say here again that I had the left switch in the left position, which I thought was the run or operate position).
Next, I re-flashed the PIC and ran through meman's routine exactly. And it worked. However I have two questions:
1. I was under the impression that the operate position was the left switch to the left and the program position was the left switch to the right. I guess that is backwards. That may have been the cause of all of my problems. So is the following correct for the left switch? "Left is program, right is operate"
2. The sequence that I have set up in Vixen is 4 channels. The light is set to channels 1-4. Here is what I get: Channel 1 = green; Channel 2 = blue; Channel 3 = White; Channel 4 = NOTHING!!. So, the obvious question is now what? First, the colors seem to be out of any sequence. I would have expected RGBW, not GBW-. Obviously, red is missing as channel 1. So, I added channels 5-8 to the sequence and, using the Lynx utility, reprogrammed the light to start at channel 5. And guess what, I get RGBW as it should be.

Therefore, I guess that I have learned several things. First, for some reason, the light does not like to work on channel 1 (at least mine, I figure everyone else is having no problem). Second, all of this problem has been caused by operator headspace (me), mainly because I had the function of the left switch backwards. Third, I built it correctly the first time - which is always good news.

I left all of the thoughts above so that maybe someone else won't have all of the problems that I had.

I love this board.  Jim W

[zwiller]

Yes, left is program and right is operate.  Other switch (DMX term) should be to the right to term.  See this thread for pic: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login
Both switches to the right when done. 

I labeled mine too!

You are VERY close.  What your describing to me sounds exactly how mine acted before got it programmed correctly.  Not sure exactly why, but when I followed memans method EXACTLY it finally took.  Cool part is when it finally takes, it is ROCK SOLID!

[meman]

With 250 new builds coming into play off the current Coop, I fnally figured out how to get logged into the Wiki so I could update the "Program Start Channel" process in the Aether II manual. Should be much smoother sailing this time around.

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Mike E.

[rrowan]

With 250 new builds coming into play off the current Coop, I fnally figured out how to get logged into the Wiki so I could update the "Program Start Channel" process in the Aether II manual. Should be much smoother sailing this time around.

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Mike E.

Hi Mike

Thanks for the update. I do have a concern about steps 4 & 5. Normally when you have a program using a com port and start another program to use the same com port it will have problems. I would think to exit the sequence program before starting up the Address Utility and then restart the sequence program at the end to test it.

Rick R.

[meman]

Thanks for the update. I do have a concern about steps 4 & 5. Normally when you have a program using a com port and start another program to use the same com port it will have problems. I would think to exit the sequence program before starting up the Address Utility and then restart the sequence program at the end to test it.

I would agree with you 100% under normal circumstances, but getting the start channel to "take" on these aethers was anything but a normal process. I'm not sure transitioning directly from Vixen to the Address Util had anything to do with success, but thats the way we repeated success many times. We were under the gun back in Nov to get these running any way possible...but we'll have more time to experiment this year and get a better understanding of why setting the start address is so finicky. For now, I would leave it as is. Confirming the comport in step 5 should root out any conflict.

Mike E. 

[Steve Gase]

RJ,

Thanks for doing this thread, it was a big help -- it indirectly helped me solve the problem.

Background:

Last year I got 2x AetherIIs from the first coop.  One I got to work without problem.  The second I tried a number of things without success, and I put it off to the side when I ran out of time before Christmas show.


Problem AetherII from first coop:  STEADY WHITE

I have reexamined all of the solder points -- now with a visor. 

I reprogrammed the PIC, first with the latest firmware... and after the problem I loaded the test firmware to the same effect. I verified the checksums multiple times with each firmware load.

I checked all resistors, the LD33, 7812, 7805, and the LD33 identification and orientation. 
I checked the direction on the 485, PIC, rectifier, and the 6800uf capacitor.

I tried with DMX attached, and also without DMX connected.

Each time I turn on power, I get a steady white light.

Looking at troubleshooting1.jpg I did voltage tests with the switches both flipped to the right (towards the LED and the center of the unit):

There was no short on the Man(ual) pins.

I did find a couple anomalies with the voltages:

voltage across the .1uf capacitor reads .237V (not 3.3V) !!
voltage across the LD33V does correctly read 5.0V.  MORE ON THIS LATER!
When I tried to jumper the control pins against the upper capacitor's ground -- it had no effect.
When I tried to jumper the control pins against the LD33's ground -- I started to see LEDs go off!

I happened upon the source of problem...  while placing my probe against the LD33's ground peg without having the other end of the probe unattached to anything I started to see the test program cycle throught colors!!

Despite seeing solder on BOTH sides of the board on the LD33's legs, it turns out that I didn't have a good soldered connection.  I added some solder and I was finally in business!

Thanks for the helpful advice, the test points and voltage levels.  While they didn't directly solve the problem, it was leading me in the right direction.

I am providing this detail to help someone else that might also have a soldering problem with the LD33... it might save a foot-shaped hole in the wall.

[RJ]

Thank you! it could help someone else, and if not it would inspire them to not give up knowing the unit will work once everything gets aligned right.

RJ

[kjam22]

I am having the same issue with solid white output only.  I checked the voltage and it is 0 at the .1 uf cap (per earlier diagram). my gues is that I am not get power to the pic but I am not sure where to go next.  Any additional help would be appreciated.

[kjam22]

so as I messed with it a little more, I found that if I jump two of the pins on the LD33v, the test sequence will run.  I have soldered the connections multiple times with no luck, does could it mean that my LD33V is bad?

[kjam22]

little more clarification, the LD33v has 5.0v per the original diagram RJ posted, when I bridge the 5V pin to ground the test sequence runs

[onesmoothhead]

it sounds like a bad solder joint. can you take pictures of both sides of the board and post.  I know there are few people here to help you if the solder pad is bad.  We would need to see it first.  I think it will work, but hard to tell what is not right without pictures.

Kevin

[kgustafson]

I made two more of these things and have two more not working.  I really think these things are my bane now! LOL.

Here is what is going on:  One works perfectly except for the red being dim.  I can go through a sequence but the red is not functioning well.  I checked all the solder joints for the Red 5 pin thingy (I think it is a voltage regulator) and the surface solder of pin 2 and 7 on the LED (for red) and I am certain they are good.  Is it possible I have a faulty LED light?

The second one works with a caveat.  I can control RGBW no problem, but in between I get a disco flicker that is crazy.  I tried to see bridges and the like, but can't seem to nail down the problem with this one.  I think I am cursed to not build these things!

Side note:  I know that I am struggling with surface pad mount soldering.  Is there any tutorials on this?  It is driving me crazy!

Kurt

[kgustafson]

I should have mentioned:

I ran RJ's test proggy against these two lights:  The one with the dim red is also dim with the test proggy (but it does run through the sequence).

The second one runs through the test proggy without flickering (in other words, works perfectly with the test HEX upload).

Kurt

[RJ]

Can you post pictures for us to look over?

RJ